Transport ** Last Updated March 2010

Travelers to Tamale pass through Accra, which is in the south, on the coast.  Delta now flies direct to Accra from New York. Other routes include Delta/KLM through Amsterdam and British Air through London. The cost varies seasonally---cheap in the winter, crowded and more expensive in the summer.  From Accra, one may fly to Tamale by Antrak Air or City Link every day.  One may also go by air-conditioned intercity bus; the journey allows you to see the towns on the way and to notice the changing landscape, from forest to savanna, and changes in dress, architecture, and other cultural features, but it takes ten hours and you would be better to break in Kumasi, an historic center worth a visit in its own right. It is now recommended to travel at night between Tamale and Kumasi. In Tamale, there is effectively no public transportation, but rickety taxis are ubiquitous. They ply fixed routes at fixed prices, or you may make your own deal – and have the vehicle to yourself (seek local advice). Cars may be hired in Accra and in Tamale but are very expensive. Tourist agencies can provide anything you are willing to pay for, including trips to other towns and tourist sites in the north or south. The Bradt Travel Guide to Ghana is one of several you might consult, and ghanaweb.com is a gateway to all sorts of information. 

Climate and dress

In July and August, the weather in Tamale is often more pleasant than it is in Louisville. This is the rainy season; the rain comes in heavy storms every few days.  In the dry season, February to March, it is much hotter. Government offices and hotels are usually air-conditioned, but shops and private homes are not. Ghanaians usually dress as well as they can afford to.  Europeans, both tourists and residents, tend to dress in shorts, a style that may be considered inappropriate.  It is best to wear neat, lightweight casual clothing; for women, pants are OK, shorts and short skirts are not. There are few opportunities for swimming, except in some hotels. If you want to take photographs anywhere else than tourist sites, introduce yourself first; people are usually happy to be photographed once they feel they know you.

Costs

Dollar bills, preferably $100’s, can readily be changed at Forex change bureaus. Major hotels and businesses in Accra expect payment in dollars and will accept credit cards but which are otherwise of little use. The currency was redenominated a few years ago so that “10,000 cedis” became “one Ghana cedi,” but most people still reckon in “old cedis”; this can be confusing! A dollar fetches about GH¢1.44 (as of 3/3/2010). As a rule, imported goods are expensive but local products cheap, because local labor is paid very little; the minimum wage is just over GH¢3 a day, about two dollars. Haggling is not the normal way to do business, except in the vicinity of major tourist attractions. Nobody is going to get rich on the amount you may be overcharged!  Exercise the same degree of caution in safeguarding your belongings as you would at home.

SCL ESTIMATED TRAVEL COSTS: Airline Ticket: U.S. – Accra round trip $1400-2000 Airline Ticket: Accra – Tamale one way $160 Passport, visa, immunizations $400-700 Gifts $100-300. Incidentals in Tamale $200-500